Cumberland

We're on our way and I'm so excited to be in this part of the world! When I was very young I used to gaze at the scene on the little Lakeland pencil tin and could not imagine that such a beautiful place existed ... Cumberland ... even the name was beautiful.

I dreamed of visiting and at six years of age I found a way. My friend, Lesley, was English and was returning so she asked her parents if I could go with them. She told me they said "Yes" and I was so thrilled. I went home to tell my parents and could not believe it when Mum refused to let me go! (I did make my personal pilgrimage to the Cumberland Pencil Museum many years later.)

Julie, since we're in no rush, I think perhaps we can take our time today. The path is well sign-posted and it might be nice to explore the villages of Moor Row and Cleator in the old 'Cumberland'. I'd like to look at St. Leonard's Church, apparently there have been worship services there for 900 years, and have a creative break with diary, pens, stamps and camera ... is that OK? There is a lovely B and B nearby which comes highly recommended for an overnight stay - the path runs by the gate - which sounds perfect.

From the beach to the headland: 'What a wonderful world'

From the beach to the headland, we follow in others' footsteps. We head up from the beach to South Head

Walking Place <http://www.walkingplaces.co.uk> has some great conotour maps of the route we will follow.

With Louis Armstrong's redition of A Wonderful World, this YouTube presentation by Berlinetta Productions gives us a sense of what we can expect. Watch out for the Isle of Man, St. Bees Lighthouse, the sandstone cliffs and other wonderful things, Kathy.

<http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=SEOXltQQyPY>

Oh I do like to be beside the seaside...

Back again to St. Bees beach before commencing the climb around South Head, to the north-west of St. Bees township.

So many beautiful photos are taken from this beach. From it, we can see the Isle of Man across the waters. The light plays on the water and it is truly spectacular.

This photo is one of me at the famous surf beach, Bell's Beach, near Torquay, Victoria, Australia. It is not St. Bees beach...but it could be. This photo was taken late December (Australian summer), but it is both bracing and breezy. I am sure that the water tempterature of Bass Strait on this day was just as breathtaking as that of the Irish Sea at the same time (UK winter)...although others might debate me :)

Here's something to whistle along to as we make our way along to the pathway that winds slowly up South Head, St. Bees. It is Basil Rathbone singing 'Oh I do like to be beside the seaside':

<http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=XmJVXHLjVhk>

It should put a brisk step in our walk.

Meeting Ern, Dennis and David

Kathy and I are bidding Ian and the Priory adieu. There is so much to see in lovely St. Bees, but the C2C path beckons us onward.

We head towards the beach: Kathy with her backpack, walking stick, and her companion, Krisztina; and I with my daypack.

We meet a couple of characters who are about to set out on their own journey: Ern, Dennis and David. I am not sure about the others, but know that Ern loves to walk. Thanks Ern for this photo of yourself with Dennis, taken by David.

We will meet many wonderful and generous people on this journey, Kathy.

The Priory

What a special place - the history, the atmosphere and the activities of the current church ... I'd love to be part of the Order of St. Bega.

St. Bees is the perfect place to start our walk and I'm glad we've got the time to wander around and learn a little of its past as well as enjoying the present - seafood risotto at 'Platform 9' sounds lovely Julie and perhaps we can share the dessert indulgence?

My trusty day-pack

Here is one of my constant companions on long-distance walks. It is the sort of pack you don't even realize you are carrying as it sits so snugly.

There are a few essentials that I always take and firstly I am going to mention Krisztina. She is getting a little restless and insists she won't be any trouble joining us in the north of England - Julie, I hope you don't mind.
Also, I know with my knees I am going to need my walking pole - so helpful up-hill and down-dale.

Inside you will find ankle and knee braces - just in case;
my spray jacket if we experience inclement weather;
a map of the route;
my camera;
a notebook for gathering addresses of newly-met friends, or recipes or any miscellany really;
some days when I know we'll have time just to sit and enjoy a church, tea-shop or beautiful view I'll put in my diary, pens and alphabet stamps to creatively journal;
a water bottle and some little picnic treats.

All fit in nicely and are ready to hand ...

Ian takes us on a tour of St. Bees Priory and School

Before travelling to St Bees, we had arranged with Ian McAndrew, a retired doctor and chairman of the local history group to give us a tour of the St Bees School and St Bees Priory. Ian is also the Webmaster of the St. Bees web page, located at http://www.stbees.org.uk/


Ian conducts guided tours of the 400-year-old St. Bees School and the nearly 1,000-year-old St. Bees Priory (also known as the Priory Church of St Mary and St Bega) for many other visiting 'Coast to Coast' walkers.

Shortly after we arrive in St. Bees, we meet up with Ian to be taken on a gentle walk round the School buildings and grounds, and then on to the Priory. The school was founded around 430 years ago by Archbishop Grindal, then the Archbishop of York.

The Priory is even older, dating back to 1120, and has been, and still is, in use as the village church since that date. It is a beautiful building, well worth a visit regardless of your religious inclinations. And arranging with Ian or one of his colleagues in the history group to take you round the Priory, makes it an even more interesting visit. It is amazing. The photo of the Priory (below) is one taken by Ian. Many thanks, Ian.

St. Bees has a fascinating and extensive history, and we spend an hour or so with Ian going round the building and hearing many of the stories about the village, school and Priory. You can see & read more about the village at the St Bees web site - www.stbees.org.uk

I comment to Ian that his tour is almost 'tailor made': Kathy and I are both educators, and I have studied mediaeval music and art. Add to that the connections of St. Bees (UK) and Bega (Australia) and it is one fascinating afternoon.

Kathy, what did you find the most intersting aspects of our tour with Ian? About St. Bees school? About the Priory?

St. Bega

It wasn't until setting out on this journey that I discovered (via Julie) the connection with Bega. Having grown up on the far south coast of NSW where most places have aboriginal names I always assumed Bega was among them. I attended primary school at Bermagui (canoe without a paddle) and then high school at Bega - six wonderful, formative years.

Now our departure point - St. Bees - named after Bega, the daughter of an Irish King who fled across the Irish Sea, arriving on the north English coast. How special to have this connection as we begin our travels.

Having arrived at St. Bees by train - other than walking I think this is my favourite way of travelling - our big adventure is underway and the days ahead stretch out alluringly. Much to explore, enjoy and experience.

A pebble

Even back in the 1980's when first thinking of this walk, a pebble was key. To pick up a smooth pebble, put it in my pocket, backpack or treasure box (thank you so much Julie - how perfect!) and carry it with me for the length of the journey was important.

Hmmm ... but which one?

On New Year's Eve, in readiness for setting out, I chose my pebble and now along with the poem, my treasures are accumulating.

High Tea in St. Bees

... Insert Image ...

We are hungry after our long rail journey and stop for a leasurely high tea at ‘Platform 9’, which is adjacent to the railway station at St. Bees, so we don’t have far to walk.

‘Platform 9’ is a local eatery specialising in fresh local ingredients including eggs from local chickens, and vegetables and herbs grown in local gardens.

Wanting to enjoy the local flavours of the journey, I am weighing up between ordering the ‘Trenchman’s Platter’ and ‘Prawn Marie Rose’. What can I order for you, Kathy? (Sample menus can be found at http://platform9.co.uk/menus/p9_bar.pdf and http://platform9.co.uk/menus/p9_menusnack.htm ).

Revived, we book in to our B and B accommodation, then walk down to the beach and dip our tired feet in the bracing waters of the Irish Sea.

St. Bees

St. Bees Station! We have arrived.


What a beautiful place to start to our virtual walk. St. Bees derives its name from St. Bega, a fitting location for the beginning of our journey as Kathy spent her childhood near the town of Bega on the south coast of New South Wales.

The Journey Before the Journey

Kathy and I are Ozzies, so to get to St. Bees, Cumbria, we will fly from Melbourne's Tullamarine Airport to London's Heathrow Airport.

We arrive at Heathrow's Terminal 5 and, once we clear Customs, we make our way to the train platform. We take the Heathrow Express to London's Paddington Station.

The third leg of the 'journey before the journey' is to take the Circle Line from Paddington to Euston.

From Euston, we board the London-Glasgow train and head north. We disembark at Carlisle, where we wait for our last train connection.

This last rail trip is from Carlisle to St. Bees. We arrive at St. Bees tired after our long journey.

Packing for the journey

Preparations are underway for our trip. What to pack for the 'Coast to Coast' walk? Are we camping or B&B-ing? Perhaps B&Bs under the circumstances...

I have learnt that we will need to prepare for all weather conditions: sun and rain, heat and cold...

We will hike with day packs and forward on our main luggage on ahead of us. In thinking about packing, we will need to bring with us our comfy hiking shoes and cushioned socks. Raincoats and sun hats. Insect repellant and sunblock. Hiking attire and a good set for those cosy pub meals. What else, Kathy?

Our day packs need to contain water, maps, compass, cameras, journal and pens, snacks...anything else?

In our daypacks we will also need to carry our 'Treasure each moment' keepsake boxes for the tangible keepsakes that we collect along the way. Kathy has already packed for us her favourite poem The Zest fo Life by Henry van Dyke. We will also add a pebble for our journey, collected from the beach at St. Bees.